Among the legendary textile heritage of India, very few are as greatly prized as “Patola.” This is the double ikkat silk textile wherein weft and wrap strands are independently fastened and dyed ahead of the weaving for creating patterns of unrivaled richness and delicacy. This is a tremendously complicated procedure developed through centuries.
Patan has remained the center for manufacture of Patola saris through centuries and still keeps on being the prime center.
Intro to the Ikkat saree
Starting from the 11th century forward references in the honor of Patola is evident in the writings of countless renowned poets and novelists of Gujarati literature. The inbred knitters of Patola in Patan happen to be the Salvis. Though they are mainly Jains they could also be a part of the Hindu group of people. They are of the opinion that they had been brought to the state of Gujarat from the South during the 10th century. These double ikkat silk fabrics are primarily woven as ikkat pattu sarees and are put on at communal and sacred ceremonies by the Vohra Muslim and Hindu ladies.
Intrepid grid based prototypes blend with elaborate floral, geometrical, as well as figurative patterned typify Patola. Some universal patterns evident in such textiles are the parrot, elephant, floral baskets, dancing doll, stars and leaves. Diverse communities had definite likings of design, typically following what their religion says. Colors made use of are mostly yellow, red, white, green, and maroon.
What is there besides the double ikkat silk?
Besides the double ikkat silk ikkat pattu sarees are being made in Rajkot and its adjoining villages in the state of Gujarat over the past few decades. They make use of designs that are like the Patola though being made in one ikkat. This makes their prices and time of manufacturing less. These are locally referred to as ‘Rajkot Patola’.
Intro to Bandhas of Orissa
Orissa’s ikkat technique is branded as Bandhas and they’ve a typical curvilinear appearance. The knitters are of Bhulia Meher, Gandia-Patra, and Salvis castes. The typical trait of such textiles is that the ikkat method is blend with brocade stripes down the lengths of the borders of the sari and in anchal or pallav, the end pieces, and seldom in the field.
More on Bandhas of Orissa
The ikkat of Orissa have deliberately feathered forms such that their perimeters appear unclear and delicate. This is realized by the use of especially fine count fiber, fastened and dyed in awfully small sets.
The blueprint lexis of these textiles is extensive and wide-ranging and include bird, fish, deer, lion, duck, elephant, shell, lamp, tortoise, stars, trellis, architectural forms, dice motifs, and waves, to name a few. The Meher knitting community from Sonepur and Baragarh knit in tussar and cotton with the knitters from Naupatna using nothing but silk. The dice pattern is executed in double ikkat termed Saktapar sari. In the other patterns, though, the borders are generally in warp ikkat with the pallavs or anchals or the end pieces being in weft ikkat.
They make use of an extensive range of colors that include yellows, greens, reds, purples, blues, and more.
For wedding pattu sarees you can pick from Bandhas of Orissa, Ikkats of Andhra Pradesh.